2019 Nov 12 Mediterranean Coast (Kaş area) · Coast & Ruins

Nov 12, 2019 Mediterranean Coast (Kaş area) · Coast & Ruins
Listening to the dawn call from the minaret has become part of my body clock. Tired of meat-heavy days, I blanched last night’s leftover lettuce and paired it with a fresh, nameless fish—no spices needed; the pure taste set every alley cat purring.
The road skimmed a beach tucked beneath cliffs— a small strip of sand wedged between rock walls, blue water within reach rolling polished pebbles back and forth like a hidden paradise. A grain, a world: here it’s a pebble, a world. There’s no sand, only stones rounded by time; given more years they’ll become sand. Time polishes not just life, but everything.
I passed two ancient cities. Ruins are no longer strange; I can almost reconstruct the streets at a glance. Up close, a king’s sarcophagus raised high over a market lane testifies to past glory—bones long gone, yet this mansion for the soul seems to wait for its master’s return. The theatre here was truly an amphitheatre; backstage beast pens survive intact. A straight, level avenue runs through the city; a broken gate struggles out of trees to show its upper arch. Legend says 2,300 years ago, under Persian pressure, the last king led the entire town to kill family, then themselves, burning treasure and palace before abandoning the city—tragic to the extreme, either too absolute in temper or fierce to the core.
Toward evening the pebble beach mirrored Mediterranean blue. Tiny “dragonflies” drifted across the sky—paragliders, another way to look at this coast. The canyon forms an hourglass: its narrow throat is exactly the line where sea meets sky. As if, at midnight, a force flips the glass in the dark and quietly starts a brand-new day.

2019年11月12日 地中海沿岸（卡什一带） 海岸与遗迹，鳗说鳗聊

● 2019年11月12日 鳗说鳗游
● 聆听宣礼塔早课已经成为生物钟的一部分，实在受不了肉多菜少的日子，昨晚两颗生菜烫熟了剩下的部分，和一条不知名的鲜鱼，调配成了今天的早餐，不用加入调料的鲜美原汁撩动着整条街的大喵。车行路过的海滩在悬崖下方，一小片沙滩夹在两侧的崖壁中间，可以触及到的蓝色海水冲刷着小石子滚来滚去，就像一小片世外桃源。一沙一世界在这里是一粒一世界，没有沙子，全是被时间打磨成圆滚滚的小石头，再过些岁月才会成为沙子吧。看来岁月打磨的不仅是生活，而是所有。经过两座古城，残垣断壁已不在陌生，眼前破败的遗迹已经可以八九不离十的快速脑补出当时的街景。零距离的接触感受颇深，高高举在市井街头的国王石棺成了曾经辉煌过的最好见证，尸骨早已荡然无存，但这个灵魂的豪宅好像一直在等着主人的归来。这里的剧院名副其实的是个斗兽场，后台一个个饲养猛兽的隔间依然保存完好，一条笔直平坦的大道穿过城市中央，残破城门孤独的在树丛中挣扎着露出上层拱顶，相传2300年前这里是被波斯军队的高压下，当时最后一任国王带领满城人民先杀妻儿后再自杀，把宝藏和皇宫一同付之一炬后废弃的，悲壮的有点惨绝人寰，看似这要不是性情太极端就是一个血性太方刚的神人。傍晚时分，小石子组成的沙滩上映着地中海蓝，天上零星的飞着“小蜻蜓”慢慢悠悠，这是从另一个角度欣赏这里的方式。峡谷形成的夹角很像沙漏的形状，最细之处正好是海天交界，好似每天一个轮回，正到午夜时分有一种力量趁着黑暗将其倒转过来，偷偷的开始新的一天。